Norway, Svalbard and Hurtigruten

Hurtigruten Ms Midnatsol from the ships drone photographer Phillip

I’ve been to Norway but this was the farthest north I have ever ventured. My previous latitude record was 70 degrees N off the coast of Greenland but this trip blasted past that at 78 degrees N latitude in Longyearbyen Svalbard and then 78.92 N latitude in Ny-Alesund. So it was early September and still pretty hot at home in Florida, but I was bundled up in my puffy vest where the temps were in the 30’s.

I learned a couple of interesting facts on this journey. The first was at the airport as I was leaving Basel, Switzerland. I entered the airport in Switzerland but the border to France was in the middle of the airport. On one side you paid for your Cappuccino in Swiss Francs and 20 feet away you paid for your Cappuccino in Euros. I checked in and it was Switzerland, security was in France, the lounge was in Switzerland and the gate in France. In case that wasn’t confusing enough I think one of the runways was actually in Germany! An interesting corner of the world. This was the most and fastest border crossings I have done in my life. The next oddity happened as I was flying from Oslo, Norway to Longyearbyen, Norway. My airport route showed me having to go through customs but this didn’t make sense to me as I was flying within the same country Norway to Norway. I was surprised to discover that while Svalbard is part of Norway it is not considered part of the Schengen area. Of course, I learned long ago to not question authority figures and just show them whatever paperwork they ask for.

Sometimes I wonder at my travel choices. I had a moment of travel rebellion and didn’t want to pay the really expensive rates for a regular hotel in Longyearbyen and thought the budget Coal Miners Cabins were a good option for 1 night. They were perhaps a half step above a hostel, and I concluded I have now evolved beyond that level of accommodation. They were quaint, and historical, but my early morning trips down the hall for the bathroom reminded me I’m 65 and not 25 with a bladder of iron.

This was my first trip on Hurtigruten and I loved it! The ship had 350 people on board, mostly German, Norwegian and Brits with a smattering of Aussies and Americans. Following a lifelong pattern I seem to find myself over-served while dining with Aussies and this trip was no exception. Cognac – I don’t even like Cognac! The food was very Norwegian with lots of fresh fish, pickled fish, smoked fish, and the best soups including Broccoli, Carrot, Leek, and Mushroom. I think I had soup and bread nearly everyday for lunch. The group was a hearty bunch, venturing out in any weather with an Expedition Team leading the way. The same can be said for the locals, they were hearty, waved flags and even had a parade to welcome us to their town. A far cry from the over tourism you find in some ports along with Diamonds International. This was genuine and seemed from a bygone era.

Fishing in Norway on board a 1917 vessel

And some days it rains like hell and you wear your best rain coat and “Carry On” and some days you’re happy to read a book and drink tea.

My trip on Hurtigruten ended in Bergen and I took the train to Oslo. Ironically I was in Oslo the morning of the King of Norways funeral. Thousands were lining the streets, and I was lucky my bus to Goteborg left on time. I was on the bus for 3 1/2 hours and chose not to use the on board toilet which made me happy to pay $1.05 at the train station for the privilege of a clean, toilet paper provided experience. To be honest, I was so desperate at that point I would have paid triple and BTW they took CREDIT CARDs. Fortunately the train to Stockholm arrived with no drama and I’m here a few days before the next rail adventure begins. The next portion of the trip is 14 days exploring Sweden and Norway via train. Are you starting to see the train theme for this adventure.

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